Sound proofed my doors

[goixiz]

I only got the rears done (2hours each door)
Matted both the inside and the outside (2 layers total)

Ill do the fronts tomorrow and if i have time and left over material ill do the trunk

here it is
http://www.mingtai.us/ixiz/9-2x/mods/RRdoor_initial.jpg

http://www.mingtai.us/ixiz/9-2x/mods/RRdoor_naked.jpg

http://www.mingtai.us/ixiz/9-2x/mods/RRdoor_matted.jpg

[moose]

And how do you like the results?

Also, where are the tweeters on a 9-2X? On the WRX they're right in front of the door handles.

DOH, didn't think straight--rear doors, no tweeters. :)

[goixiz]

i like it
I opened and closed to compare and definately a difference
I have stock speakers so may not realize the full potential
The door closes with a solid thump
The results are realized more when closing the door from the inside - felt like lexus now

[moose]

Surprised the Saab didn't have better soundproofing than a WRX in the doors, honestly. Glad you're enjoying it.

[goixiz]

I am now questioning whether i should place the plastic cover i removed back on as a moisture barrier ?

[Weapon]

this is a good idea! i might be down for this. as for the plastic cover..it couldnt hurt by putting it back on..

[moose]

I left mine off. Still need to do the rear doors and trunk; might go ahead and get some Xtreme off ebay pretty soon.

[suby113]

You guys don't think that all that extra weight hinders performance? Or is it to suttle to notice?

[moose]

Honestly, it isn't very heavy. The Xtreme stuff is .45 lbs / square foot. I think I used around 6 sq ft for each front door, so it added a whooping 5.4 lbs. Once I do the rear doors and trunk I might've added no more than 18-20 lbs all in all, and significantly improved the sound system performance and interior comfort.

[suby113]

ok cool so do You think I should do it with my 06 STI?

[moose]

It's really up to you. If you're looking to silence some road noise and make the car a little tighter and more solid feeling it'll definitely help. Alex has done some STi related research and can probably share it; I think the STi has a fair amount less noise reduction than the WRX so there might be more places you need to install it in.

[suby113]

ok cool! Thanks! I suppose I'll wait to see what alex has to say.:wiggle: Milo have you done it yet?

[goixiz]

3.5+ hrs for the front door (each) (only did the passenger this AM)
Its a little harder for the front. I paid a little more attention to details and i did a lot of marking and measuring before cutting. And i matted the insides of the outside skin almost entirely - took a lot more time because its hard to get a sticky tar mat into crevices without it sticking to something you dont want and hands cant get to edges

Tip
get $1 spatulas (dollar store)
mark where the snap on pins (holes) are so you dont cover it
disconnect or wires and hold downs from the door (and mark holes) before laminating
wind down window to remove door cards and then wind it all the way up to laminate
keep marker handy
wear gloves (throw aways)
replace knife tip after 5-6 cuts
peel the backing off then readhere it so when you want to remove it in tight spots its easy to peel off
goof off is handy when you have tar all over the place
dont get tar on upholstery - tough to get off without stain - cover it with trash bags.

you can take advantage of my mistakes

[Alex]

Alright, so I thought I actually did post my reply, but apparently I did not. Regarding the weight issue, <10lbs is not something to be worrying about. Hell, I need to lose 10lbs. Once I do that, then I'll worry about the actual car.

I cannot speak for Milo, but I am nearly 100% certain that he wants nothing to do with deadening, I on the other hand, am about to be all over it. Why? All of my driving now is 100% city generally with passengers, and I would like to be able to have a quieter ride around town (within reason) as well as a conversation from time to time. Also, I would like to see more out of my stereo setup.

It is my understanding that the STi has a substantially less amount of internal sound deadedning versus the WRX. From driving both, I will say that's true. The Saabaru is considerably MORE quiet than any WRX Ive ever been in. It's also a good 200 lbs heavier, so some of that weight maybe went into quieting it up. Looking at your door Ming, the difference I see is that you have a whole lotta foam in there. The front door of my STi was merely plastic over sheet metal (jdm weight reducto!).

What I am considering is about a 5-10lbs addition to deaden the interior and trunk. This assumes I do infact take the carpet up and do the floor boards. Nevertheless, this includes all 4 doors and the trunk interior.

Here are some shots from a 06 WRX Wagon off Nasioc. Now, I assume the 06 STi has more sound deadening than the 04, they did give you heated seats afterall. For sake of argument, lets just say it looks a hell of a lot similar to these snaps:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2134000-2134999/2134487_46_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2134000-2134999/2134487_58_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2134000-2134999/2134487_58_full.jpg

Another out of an 06 STi (how I will be doing my flooring as well)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/brewpubeaver/My%20STI/DSCN1817.jpg

Allow me to quote raamaudio from their post over on NASIOC (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712026&page=1&pp=25),

1) Basic deadening, effective to a fairly high degree, lower weight and cost as well as labor.

-Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture barrier, toss it in the trash.
-One layer of mat on 2/3 of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add two more smaller layers, about 10" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensulite foam is best.
-Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works great and easy to work with. Use a gasket between it and the door metal and screw it down snugly.
-Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and tightens up the midbass response.
-Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel. Mat right up to and onto the sides of the new speaker baffel, this stiffens the whole area alot more, helps midbass response.
-Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensulite again is best but hard to find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2" from edge of panel. Go right over the speaker baffel then cut out the speaker hole area, the foam absorbs or breaks up unwanted accoustical energy inside the door panel area and makes a great gasket.
-Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually about 1/4 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.

-Rear doors, I advise to ditch the speakers then seal up the doors like the front but no mat needed on the outer door skin, it is mainly for improving midbass response, no speakers, no midbass, no baffles needed either so skip those steps and patch over the stock speaker hole. The low mounted speakers are in a horrible location anyway. Saves weight and money, 99.9% of the best comp cars in the world do not use rear speakers, I never do. But, it you must have them, do the rear doors exactly like the fronts.

-Lower A pillars, in front of the doors, remove the kick panel trim, lift the factory deadening pad, mat over the big holes there then a layer of foam, wrap over the wiring the best you can to seal them up well, any holes you can reach above that, do the same.

-Wheel wells, one layer of mat on the whole rear wheel wells then a layer of ensolite over that.

-Behind rear seat, one layer of mat over the factory black plastic covering the trunk access whole, seal up all around the edges and all other holes into the trunk possible. Overlap the two verticle steel sq tubes that brace the rear deck. One layer of Ensolite over the whole area and the floor under the rear seat.

-Rear deck, EXTREMELY CRITICAL, the most important area in an STI. Seal up all the holes you can, hard to mount metal there so use a layer of mat over the wholes then a second layer of mat over the whole area. Then go under the deck and add patches of mat to the holes, etc, it will stick really well to the exposed sticky side of the mat you installed on the top of the deck. Then foam over the whole area.
-Problem, you need to have at least a access for the ventilation system to push air through. I think a sound absorbing tunnel, simply bent aluminum with an ensolite liner, may be the ticket, will try to make one when I do some touchup deadening on the STI we just worked on.

This install level would take around 60 sq ft of whatever mat brand you choose and 3 yards of 1/8" close cell foam, Ensolite being far superior to anything else I know of. Total weight gain for this level of deadening will be around 26-27 lbs.

Notes:
-For a bit more improvement, low cost, etc, you can use whatever scraps left over on the floor of the car, tap around, put it only on the resonate areas. Then a layer of ensolite over the whole floor. Two more yards will be enough if you have some left from the above steps.

[suby113]

cool I might do it looks like a lot of work though,Just might not be that important. We'll see I guess.:dunno

[moose]

The doors really aren't bad to do -- Alex can vouch for this. I think I spent 45 mins or so per door.

The worst would probably be yanking the interior out, but even that can't be too bad. I bet you could do the entire car on a Saturday or something easily.

[miloman]

i probably wont do this

[WrxCrazy]

i probably wont do this

why not??
btw the way an 02 works is i need this bad.. as well.. maybe we can have a group buy for a car worth of dynamat or sumthing.. :sx:

[goixiz]

" It's also a good 200 lbs heavier,
wow is it really that much heavier (saabaru vs wrx)
Are the weights you are using a wagon vs wagon
I cant see 200# of sound deadening or any additional opition unless they are including leather seats and sunroof and other options .

[moose]

why not??
btw the way an 02 works is i need this bad.. as well.. maybe we can have a group buy for a car worth of dynamat or sumthing.. :sx:

Around $120 shipped on ebay for 36 sq ft.

[Alex]

" It's also a good 200 lbs heavier,
wow is it really that much heavier (saabaru vs wrx)
Are the weights you are using a wagon vs wagon
I cant see 200# of sound deadening or any additional opition unless they are including leather seats and sunroof and other options .

Note, I never said that all of the weight was specifically from sound deadening. I just pulled up edmunds and here are the results (take it with a grain of salt, note the difference). Its interesting that I see the two weights now, the difference is 45lbs, which could be a multitude of things. I dont remember when I originally read the weights or the differences between the two, but these are the curb weights listed.

2005 Saab 9-2X
Aero 4dr Sport Wagon (2.0L 4cyl Turbo 5M)
Curb Weight: 3210 lbs.

2005 Subaru Impreza
WRX AWD 4dr Sport Wagon (2.0L 4cyl Turbo 5M)
Curb Weight: 3165 lbs.

2006 Subaru Impreza
WRX 4dr Wagon AWD (2.5L 4cyl Turbo 5M)
Curb Weight: 3252 lbs.

2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi
4dr Sedan AWD w/Gold-Painted Wheels (2.5L 4cyl Turbo 6M)
Curb Weight: 3351 lbs.

[Mad Mallard]

www.bquiet.com