06 STI Time Attack Build up

[slowwrx]

Just got back to working on the car seriously so I'm just going to start this over fresh.
A lot of things have changed since I started the build...like everything.

Heres a quick rundown of what the finished car will be like

2006 STI (30K miles)
100% gutted
Lexan Windows
Carbon Trunk
Carbon Hood
Carbon Door Skins (in the future)
Its most likely staying the Army Green Color

Suspension
RCE T2s
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline Roll Center Kit
Whiteline Big Sways and Endlinks (may be replace with RCE)
Whiteline Rear Control Arms
Rear Diff Locks
DMS Front Camber Plates
RCE Fixed Rear Plates

Wheels
Enkei NT03s 18x10
Advan A048s (for now)

Brakes
Stoptech ST40s 355mm
Carbotech XP12s Front
Carbotech XP10s Rear

Transmission
2007 Legacy Spec B 6speed (long ratios)
Carbonetics 1 way Front Diff
Carbonetics 1.5 way Rear Diff
Cusco Tarmac Center Diff
Carbonetics Twin Disk Clutch
Kartboy Shifter and Bushings

Engine
2.2 Closed Deck Block
79mm Crank
Pauter Connecting Rods
Wiseco Pistons
Total Seal Rings
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Gaskets
JDM Version 8 Heads Ported
Full Ferrea Valvetrain 1mm oversize
Custom Grind Cams

Turbo Intercooler Etc..
Precision 67mm BB turbo T4 .82
Custom Header, Uppipe, and Downpipe
Garret Intercooler Core, custom endtanks and Piping
Tial BOV
Tial Wastegate

Engine Management
AEM DBW ECU
AEM integrated boost control
Anti-Lag
Launch Control

Interior
Stock Dash has been gutted of everything and is actually fairly light, I was going to pick up a fiberglass replica gut theres not really any need. MSI has a Carbon Race Style center console that I will probably get to replace the factory one.

I'm rereading this years rules for the Redline series to see if I can fit the car into modified, I want to run the gutted doors and Lexan windows but if I can't I have a full set of working doors with real glass.

[slowwrx]

I'm about to edit the first post as well but I've been working on the car a lot lately. Heres what has been going on lately.

Last week I cut all the plugs to fill the holes in the firewall. Most sanctioning bodies require holes in the firewall to be filled and since the car no longer has heat or AC there are lots of big gaping holes to fill.

I spent most of the day today looking for the Circlips that go on the rear axles before you slide them in the diff only to realize that they aren't on the axles....they stay in the diff.

Tonight I started the night out by making a couple of templates to for mounting switches, Relays, Fuses, Gauges, ECU and Data Acquisition.

Replacing the stock gauge cluster with the G2X Data Aq, that little display will tell me almost everything I need to know, I will most likely add a Wideband and a AEM Serial Gauge to the left and right.


This will house all the switches for the car as well as Circuit Breakers with LEDs to display the switch status as well as the Circuit Breaker Status.


Just started mocking up the relay board so I can figure out exactly where its going to mount. These are all Bosch 280 Weatherproof relays, very nice relays and pretty reasonable.

Feb\4
After much work on the relays and how they are going to mount they have since been rendered useless by these really trick aviation circuit breakers that I picked up from some friends that have a Air Salvage Company. I also picked up some composite Panels to make the Flat Bottom for the car.

The Toggles are 40amp breakers for the high power items, the rest will be on the button style breakers.


These are the 4x8 1\2inch composite sheets for the flat bottom.

I'm redrawing my entire wiring diagram though it should be easier this time since there will be no fuses or relays all the power can go directly through the switches\breakers.

A quick note about the wiring, all of the wire I'm using is Tefzel, a fairly expensive aviation grade wire that is highly flexible and heat resistant. It will all be covered in Raychem heat shrink as well.

Took a break from the wiring today to get some more mechanical work done.

Sunday Feb 7th
Just installed the GTSpec Fender Reinforcement Braces, Went on pretty easy...which is always nice

I had already installed the Carbonetics 1.5 way rear diff in the housing but I was having issues getting it back in the car. I still don't have all my strength back in my wrist from the motorcycle wreck so it was making it difficult to wrestle it into the car while on my back. Well I muscled up the strength today and got it in. I'm about to slide the axles in and put the ARP extended wheel studs in. Ill update with some more pics later.

Plans for tonight
Finish Gutting the Passenger doors, Install Extended Wheel Studs, Install Rear Axles and Tighten all rear suspension bolts.


Here you can see the Front Diff and Bell Housing separated from the tranny.


Here is the front pinion gear about to be blued so that I can check to make sure the diff is in right


Rear Diff installed in the car


Fuck the Super Bowl

[slowwrx]

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[slowwrx]

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[Alex]

bugeye plan failed already? must have missed that one

[slowwrx]

Yeah I couldn't keep the STI ABS without rewiring the whole car. ABS is important on Street tires

[breel]

Do you just have the back half of the wide body or the with the fenders also? May want to hit some flea markets and Big Lots for some cheap 1" C-clamps for the back panels, and I'll come up this weekend to help mount those if you want?

[slowwrx]

Just the Back, I can pull the front far enough to fit the wheels I want, Im trying to get one of the wheels now, if it fits without it then I'm not even going to worry about it.

[CoolRex]

So you painted the car green.....Poor thing lost the Aspen White.

What rotated kit is this car going to use?

[Alex]

Originally Posted by CoolRex

So you painted the car green.....Poor thing lost the Aspen White.

What rotated kit is this car going to use?

BASF Green w/ polished roof if I remember correctly